Oatey Plastic Sealant, Polyurethane, 10.1 oz, Gray (25215), No Size, No

Half of the tube had started setting up and was not useable. I was able to drill through the hard portion and use the remaining product to complete my cast-iron soil pipe repair. The product did complete my project with no leaks. I do recommended this as a replacement for lead and oakum.

not just ideal perfect. used with oatey shower drain. drain pipe was not perfectly aligned. filled above rubber seal and its compression nut. draining water directly to center of pipe. many month later now. no cracking no shrinking adhered very well still little soft . very confident i wont have to work on that drain again.

Great stuff for sealing PVC pipe into cast iron drain stack. I replaced some old galvanized drain lines with new PVC pipe and used this stuff to seal the joints into the cast iron bell housings. Also used it to reseal all the original cast iron bell housings joints (cast iron to cast iron). I used a wire brush to clean joints ahead of time - no leaks anywhere. Be careful to let it cure overnight before using the drains. Also before inserting the new PVC pipe into the old cast iron bell housing put about an inch wide sealant bead starting about 3/4" from the end of the PVC (very important) of a generous thickness then insert the pipe into the cast iron housing. This will create a good seal. Make sure the pipe goes the whole way in to the back of the bell housing. This should give you the start of good bead on the outside of the bell housing. then add more sealant to give you a thick wide seal the whole way around the bell housing and PVC pipe. I made the mistake of force packing the sealant into the the joint and ended up clogging the pipe with sealant even though the pipe was seated completely into the back of the bell housing. Hence the technique described above. My DIY project was 4 new drain lines and 8 cast iron to cast iron joints.

I thought this was going to harden like hard plastic and it did not. It dries to a rubbery consistency. I had 3 solider joints become lose when I cut out a section of galvanized drain line with a saws all. On one joint (the floor joint) I was able to use a packing iron to tighten the lead. The other two I was not. The two joints are vent joints and not at the floor. When this was described as a product to oakum and lead a joint. I thought it would dry hard as to tighten the joint. But it does not. I don't think I would use this to oakum and lead a joint as the joint would be wobbly. It would be sealed but wobbly. It appears to seal very well. So I think it will keep the gases out. It is thick and sticks to the pipe and flange. Because it did not dry hard I gave it a 4 star.

I needed to join a PVC pipe to a old cast iron bell joint. Due to limitations on access this was a great solution

Used this to seal an almost 2 foot crack on the top of one my indoor septic pipes. Results in a hard, yet flexible rubbery-plastic seal that bonded well to my old iron-cast piping. So far, so good. Highly recommended for iron cast piping, despite its product name.

This was the only product that could seal cast iron to pvc pipe. I tried another product that failed. I had to replace an old lead pipe sewer line and didn't have enough pipe left over to use a coupling. Follow the instructions and you will be satisfied. It looks wet after it cures but it is dry. Been over half a year and still no leaks and no sign of degradation. This was a life saver!

Had to use to repair a 4" lead drain pipe to a brass closet flange (there's a great video on youtube for this) and it worked like a champ. This stuff cures to a tough rubber consistency. However, since it's very thick, you will have to squeeze considerably harder on the caulking gun to dispense it.